Do’s and Don’ts on the Ban Gioc Waterfall Loop: Vietnam

On the northeastern border of China and Vietnam, you will find monstrous limestone mountains, milky blue waterfalls, rural roads, even more rural living, and the adventure of a lifetime. 

Vietnam is renowned for its world-class motorbike routes and none is more famous than the Golden Loop (aka Ha Giang Loop). But if you are looking to break away from the pack and set out on a self-drive adventure of note, look to the more eastern loop heading to Ban Gioc waterfalls. These tiered waterfalls are a natural spectacle that forms a watery border between Vietnam and China. From there you crawl all along the border on a circular route through epic mountains and valleys to see the untamed side of Vietnam. 

A trip like this is not for the faint of heart but if you can follow a few simple guidelines you can save yourself tons of trouble on the road. Here are a few dos and don’ts to consider when taking on this loop.

DO Try to drive a semi-automatic bike.

Many rental shops will tell you that the inclines are not too steep and you can get away with an automatic scooter. Don’t do it! Semi-automatic bikes are a breeze to learn and a few quick spins around the block will have you sorted. You will thank your stars when you do inevitably get a flat tire or hit a piece of road that is no longer in existence. Semi-automatic bikes give you much more control with a smaller frame and the ability to change gears for unpredictable roads. 

DON’T book your accommodation far in advance.

You actually don’t have to book accommodation at all. Once you leave Cao Bang (the starting point for most on this trip) you don’t have to worry to book your accommodation in advance. You will be staying at homestays along the way and these folks welcome you with open arms upon arrival. The problem is you often get sidetracked on the road or could get held up by tough road conditions. You will most probably end up driving well into the night to reach your next destination. It is much better to roll into the nearest town and knock on any homestay’s door once you start to feel tired. 

DO always have snacks on hand

The towns on this loop are few and far in between. People in the north of Vietnam live in small settlements rarely more than a few houses big. Food won’t be readily available and some days you won’t get more than a Banh Mi for breakfast. Make sure you have ample snacks packed as well as water or be prepared to go very hungry. Stock up on granola bars ahead of time and buy fresh fruit when you pass through a market. 

DON’T miss the following points of interest

Ban Gioc Waterfall

This waterfall is the big one to tick off on this list. But the road there is actually quite short and you can get there and back to Cao Bang in one day. So, make many pit-stops and take in all the marvelous sights. Make the drive up to the pagoda as well to get a top view of the complex waterfall system.

Nguom Ngao Cave/Tiger Cave

It is worth spending the night near Ban Gioc to visit these caves the next morning. This spectacular cave system is around 1km long and was formed by an underground river that still flows today. The caves are dimply lit with lampposts along the walkway and the path is slippery. But the sheer magnitude of the cave system is awe-inspiring and you will leave feeling inspired. 

Me Pia Pass

This mountain pass is treacherous and rises 14-stories into the mountains. The pass has numerous sharp hairpin bends and touch terrain and is sure to get your adrenalin pumping. Once you reach the top you can speak to locals to get directions to the path you can trek to get a side view of this glorious pass. The trek is about an hour both ways so make sure to work that time into your schedule.

Angle Eye Mountain

This mountain is a very well-kept secret and not even far off the road. You can find it on google maps and a narrow muddy road will lead you to a scene straight out of Jurassic Park (no dinosaurs have been spotted yet). The triangular mountain rises from the expansive valley and has an immense hole right at the top. This unique geographical site is nothing short of breathtaking. 

Do Rely on Local Knowledge

Vietnamese people are gracious hosts and will love to help you wherever you go. Even if you might not speak the same language, you will always be able to pull over and ask for directions on a map. The roads are often closed without warning or have washed away in recent rains so make sure about road conditions from locals. They will never send you on an unmanageable road. Also, check with your homestay about points of interest along your road the next day. They know about all the best sights to see and places to visit.